Exmoor National Park, with its rugged moorlands, hidden valleys, and enchanting coastline, had always been a place I wanted to explore. So, when we decided to spend a week there, staying in a charming cottage in Exebridge, I knew it would be a trip to remember. Here’s how we spent our seven days, soaking in the beauty and tranquillity of my now-favourite county in England.
Day 1: Arrival in Exebridge
We arrived in Exebridge, a quiet village by the River Exe, and settled into our cosy cottage.
The view from our bedroom window, with the sound of the river gently flowing by, was the perfect welcome and one that I enjoyed every morning.
In the early evening, once unpacked, we walked a few steps out of the front door, over the bridge to the local pub, The Anchor Inn, where we enjoyed a lovely meal and friendly conversation with the locals. The warmth of the place and the delicious food made us feel right at home. We ended the evening in their pub garden skimming stones across the river.
Day 2: Exploring Tarr Steps and Dulverton
We set off to visit Tarr Steps, the ancient clapper bridge that has stood the test of time. Busy at the start with walkers, paddlers and artists but became much quieter as the walk went on.
The hike along the river was slippy in places but the sense of calm through the woodlands was serene, with the river gently bubbling alongside us. The bridge, with its weathered stones, was pretty spectacular, as was the infamous penny tree. It is said that if you are ill, inserting a coin will aid your recovery and if you take a coin out from the tree, then you will become ill.
In the afternoon, we drove to Dulverton, a charming village with its delightful mix of shops and cosy cafes. My particular favourite was the greengrocers where we treated ourselves to strawberries and fresh clotted cream to enjoy later on.
We had lunch at a quaint café, enjoying local produce and the village’s peaceful ambience. The Exmoor National Park Centre was a highlight, where we learned about the park’s wildlife and history and bought a couple of guidebooks for our adventures.
Back in Exebridge, the sun came back out and we spent the evening by the river, skimming stones with new friends, a campfire and s’mores, watching the sunset paint the sky in shades of pink and gold. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.
Day 3: Discovering Lynton and Lynmouth
Today, we journeyed to the twin villages of Lynton and Lynmouth. In Lynmouth, we strolled along the harbour (I blimmin’ love a good harbour!) admiring the gorgeous boats and the quaint shops. The afternoon was spent exploring the East Lyn River gorge, walking along its scenic trails to Watersmeet House. The scenery was simply mesmerising, with the river cascading over rocks and the forest canopy overhead.
The ride on the Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway was the perfect way to see the breathtaking views of the coastline below. Standing at the top of the cliff, we could see the vast expanse of the sea meeting the sky.
We ended our day with a delicious fish and chip dinner in Lynmouth, enjoying the fresh seafood and the tranquil ambiance of the village as the sun went down.
Day 4: Tall Trees Trail
A slower day was in order & the drizzle in the air helped with that! Eager to experience the forested side of Exmoor, we headed to the Tall Trees Trail in Nutcombe Bottom. Known for its towering Douglas firs and majestic redwoods, the trail promised a different kind of adventure.
We set off on the well-marked path, immediately enveloped by the serene atmosphere of the forest. The sheer height of the trees was awe-inspiring, their canopies creating a natural cathedral above us. We took our time, marveling at the lush undergrowth and the play of light and shadow on the forest floor.
Returning to our cottage in Exebridge, we spent a relaxing evening playing Uno and talking about how the boys were planning on catching their crayfish in the river before we left for home!
Day 5: A day at Woolacombe beach
We decided to spend today a bit further afield. Not technically Exmoor but I am keeping it in 🙂 We had a relaxing day at one of the most beautiful beaches in Devon – Woolacombe beach. The drive there was scenic, with rolling hills and coastal views, and we found ourselves in awe of the surroundings.
Parking in the car park above, we were greeted by the sight of golden sands stretching for miles and the sound of waves crashing against the shore. Getting down to the beach was a bit of a mission, (and coming back up was even harder!) the sand dunes are much bigger than they look!
We set up our spot on the beach and spent the morning soaking up the sun, reading, and people-watching.
The beach was peaceful (at the less-touristy end we chose!) and away from the madding crowds is just how I like it. We took a long walk along the shoreline, collecting seashells and watching surfers ride the waves.
As the sun began to set, we trudged back up the dunes and the day left us feeling refreshed and content, with sandy toes and sun-kissed skin.
Day 6: A Lazy River Day & Stargazing
Without a doubt, one of our favourite things about staying at the cottage we’d chosen, is its proximity to the river. A 2-minute walk over the bridge and you are there. It’s not a busy area and seemed to be frequented only by locals who came for a morning swim. We spent hours here throughout our stay, a quick dip in the morning before heading out, and the same again most evenings. We decided to spend a whole day here, just us, a rubber dinghy and a crayfish net. It was simple and perfect.
After an early dinner at our cottage, we drove to one of the designated Dark Sky Discovery Sites.
As night fell, the sky transformed into a brilliant tapestry of stars. With minimal light pollution, Exmoor offers some of the best stargazing opportunities in the UK. We lay on a blanket, gazing up at the Milky Way, spotting constellations, and even catching sight of a few shooting stars. The silence of the night and the vastness of the sky above made it a truly magical experience.
Day 6: Wild Ponies
We dedicated this day to exploring the open moorland of Exmoor, eager to encounter the famous wild ponies. We packed a picnic and set off early, driving to one of the many moorland trails.
The landscape was breathtaking, with rolling hills covered in heather and gorse. As we walked, we soon spotted a herd of Exmoor ponies grazing peacefully in the distance.
The Exmoor ponies were a beautiful sight. Watching them roam freely across the moor, we felt a deep connection to the wild beauty of Exmoor. We spent a good while observing them, taking photos and simply enjoying the moment.
Day 7: A Relaxed Morning and Farewell
Our final day was all about taking it slow. We spent the morning at the river, skimming stones with a cup of tea, It was the perfect way to reflect on the week’s adventures. We had a leisurely lunch at the pub, chatting with the owners about their love for this beautiful part of the world, and bid them a fond farewell – until next time.
Exmoor had welcomed us with open arms, We set off feeling grateful for the memories we had made. with a heart full of peace and a promise to return.
